Eggs Florentine at Pinky’s in Livingston, MT. Photo by James Jenks
By Katie Thomas
One of the best things about living in the Gallatin Valley is how easy it is to visit Yellowstone Park. You can drive there and back in one day, if you want. This proximity is a benefit that many locals take advantage of year-round for the Park’s extraordinary fishing, hiking, cross-country skiing, camping, animal-watching, and geyser-admiring. As long as the roads aren’t closed due to inclement weather, this 2.2-million-acre slice of paradise is accessible right outside our door.
However, once you’re inside Yellowstone Park, the food possibilities come to a screeching halt. Sure, there are a few restaurants and little stores where you can buy the limited selection of things one might find in a mini mart. Depending on the time of year, many of these are closed for the season or booked solid with hours-long lines of tourists waiting for a table. One July, I waited two hours for a charcuterie plate that consisted of bland cheeses, stale crackers, and a sad handful of grapes. By the time I got out of there, the mart around the corner from my cabin had closed for the night.
However, once you’re inside Yellowstone Park, the food possibilities come to a screeching halt. Sure, there are a few restaurants and little stores where you can buy the limited selection of things one might find in a mini mart. Depending on the time of year, many of these are closed for the season or booked solid with hours-long lines of tourists waiting for a table. One July, I waited two hours for a charcuterie plate that consisted of bland cheeses, stale crackers, and a sad handful of grapes. By the time I got out of there, the mart around the corner from my cabin had closed for the night.
Belgian waffle at Pinky’s in Livingston, MT. Photo by James Jenks
Having learned my lesson about depending on dining options within Yellowstone, I decided to take my tastebuds on the road. I knew of a few good places to grab a bite outside the Park, but I wanted to investigate further. So, with my spirited friend Sarah, I went on a quest to combine two of my favorite things: eating and journeying to Yellowstone.
One cool October morning, Sarah and I hit I-90 East out of Bozeman. Our first stop was breakfast at Pinky’s Café in Livingston. An incredible little hole-in-the-wall, Pinky’s remains my favorite breakfast place in the state. Something about the retro atmosphere and the perfection of their eggs keeps me driving over Bozeman Pass just for the Bird Float Breakfast. With choices like Belgian waffles (Sarah’s pick of the day) and the Eggs Florentine (mine), breakfast at Pinky’s is always a treat.
One cool October morning, Sarah and I hit I-90 East out of Bozeman. Our first stop was breakfast at Pinky’s Café in Livingston. An incredible little hole-in-the-wall, Pinky’s remains my favorite breakfast place in the state. Something about the retro atmosphere and the perfection of their eggs keeps me driving over Bozeman Pass just for the Bird Float Breakfast. With choices like Belgian waffles (Sarah’s pick of the day) and the Eggs Florentine (mine), breakfast at Pinky’s is always a treat.
We decided to kill some time until lunch, because we had our hearts set on the next destination. Livingston is a great place to walk around under the stunning views of the Absaroka Mountains, so we meandered down to Sacajawea Park, where we took turns belting out showtunes in the little bandshell. After “You Can’t Get a Man with a Gun,” it was justifiably lunch time. We had a tough decision: Engine Room Pizza (tremendous homemade crusts), Neptune’s Eatery (an ocean-themed sushi restaurant), or Mark’s In & Out (a 50s-style walk-up burger stand).
Because I’m a certified aquaphile and love an establishment covered in mermaids, we chose Neptune’s. Colorful seahorses and jellyfish greeted us from all angles as we settled into our blue-and-white booth. I ordered the gorgeous and refreshing Sushi Salad, and Sarah ordered the Smash Burger, which provided enough French fries for two and Sarah reported as “scrumptious.” Neptune’s menu is extensive, and those who may not be sushi fans can find a wide variety of choices, including nachos, cheese fries, and salads.
After lamenting that we couldn’t stay in town for dinner at Campione, Sarah and I drove into Paradise Valley. We waved to Pine Creek Café, promising that we’d eat there next time. Once we arrived in Emigrant, we considered the cluster of choices: Sage Lodge, the Old Saloon, Follow Yer’ Nose BBQ, or Chico Hot Springs. At length we sidled up to the old-timey bar at the Old Saloon, where we enjoyed a pint under the watchful eye of a mounted jackalope.
Because I’m a certified aquaphile and love an establishment covered in mermaids, we chose Neptune’s. Colorful seahorses and jellyfish greeted us from all angles as we settled into our blue-and-white booth. I ordered the gorgeous and refreshing Sushi Salad, and Sarah ordered the Smash Burger, which provided enough French fries for two and Sarah reported as “scrumptious.” Neptune’s menu is extensive, and those who may not be sushi fans can find a wide variety of choices, including nachos, cheese fries, and salads.
After lamenting that we couldn’t stay in town for dinner at Campione, Sarah and I drove into Paradise Valley. We waved to Pine Creek Café, promising that we’d eat there next time. Once we arrived in Emigrant, we considered the cluster of choices: Sage Lodge, the Old Saloon, Follow Yer’ Nose BBQ, or Chico Hot Springs. At length we sidled up to the old-timey bar at the Old Saloon, where we enjoyed a pint under the watchful eye of a mounted jackalope.
Then it was on to Gardiner, the last stop before entering Yellowstone. We’d heard great things about the Wonderland Café, so we had to give it a whirl. Here we sampled the unmatched Curried Pumpkin Hummus and savory Honey Mustard-Glazed Salmon, officially stuffing ourselves before bidding farewell to our gastronomic tour for the night. We entered the Park’s north gate and checked into the Mammoth Hotel, where we giggled like children at haunted creaking sounds before conking out.
Early the next morning, Sarah and I grabbed coffee in the Map Room of the hotel before taking a quick spin around the Terraces. Then we drove to Old Faithful, where the wandering bison were close enough to high-five and where, sure enough, breakfast selections consisted of overpriced yogurts and microwaved egg patties. So,we hightailed it out the Park’s west gate and into the singular town of West Yellowstone. We’d been instructed to visit the Running Bear Pancake House.
Early the next morning, Sarah and I grabbed coffee in the Map Room of the hotel before taking a quick spin around the Terraces. Then we drove to Old Faithful, where the wandering bison were close enough to high-five and where, sure enough, breakfast selections consisted of overpriced yogurts and microwaved egg patties. So,we hightailed it out the Park’s west gate and into the singular town of West Yellowstone. We’d been instructed to visit the Running Bear Pancake House.
Exterior of Wonderland Cafe in Gardiner, MT. Photo by Stacey Joy
As soon as we pulled up and spied the restaurant’s vintage sign, I knew we were in the right place. This is a proper Montana café, clearly beloved by locals. Sarah and I ordered enormous breakfasts, perhaps encouraged by the table of snowmobilers chowing down at the table next to us. The pancakes – huge, sweet, and fluffy – did not disappoint. Nor did the crispy hashbrowns, or dark coffee, or anything at all. Although a decidedly different ambiance, Running Bear is a close second to Pinky’s.
Once again, we had extra time before our next meal. We combed the streets, poking our heads into Old Town Café, the Buffalo Bar, and Yellowstone Provisions. We were heartened by strong evidence that anyone stranded here wouldn’t go hungry. At exactly 11:59 a.m., we declared lunch and entered Wild West Pizzeria and Saloon. It was everything we’d hoped for, complete with a pool table and friendly bartender. Sarah ordered the Calamity Jane pizza (vegetables and ricotta cheese with white sauce), while I had no choice but to order the Annie Oakley (tomatoes, basil, and mozzarella on marinara).
Once again, we had extra time before our next meal. We combed the streets, poking our heads into Old Town Café, the Buffalo Bar, and Yellowstone Provisions. We were heartened by strong evidence that anyone stranded here wouldn’t go hungry. At exactly 11:59 a.m., we declared lunch and entered Wild West Pizzeria and Saloon. It was everything we’d hoped for, complete with a pool table and friendly bartender. Sarah ordered the Calamity Jane pizza (vegetables and ricotta cheese with white sauce), while I had no choice but to order the Annie Oakley (tomatoes, basil, and mozzarella on marinara).
The Annie Oakley Pizza at Wild West Pizzeria. Photo courtesy of Aaron Hecht
It was finally time for the long and scenic journey home. But our loop was not yet complete; we had to stop at the Corral, a classic Montana bar-steakhouse-motel of the variety that I fear will someday be extinct. Sarah ordered the most outrageous Bloody Mary I’d ever seen, while I gazed in awe at the taxidermy.
Passing Big Sky, we waved at Olive B’s as Highway 191 snaked us along the glorious Gallatin River. We rolled into Gallatin Gateway for our last gasp at Stacey’s, where we took to the barstools, deciding that we could manage the fried pickles with Rocker sauce. Licking our fingers, we agreed that this had been a tough job, but someone had to do it.
People don’t go to Yellowstone Park for the food. But since everyone has to eat eventually, why not enjoy what the surrounding areas have to offer, instead of depending on fast food or a cooler of soggy PB & Js? With a bounty of delicious and unusual roadside options, today’s journey to Yellowstone Park can be a culinary adventure.
Passing Big Sky, we waved at Olive B’s as Highway 191 snaked us along the glorious Gallatin River. We rolled into Gallatin Gateway for our last gasp at Stacey’s, where we took to the barstools, deciding that we could manage the fried pickles with Rocker sauce. Licking our fingers, we agreed that this had been a tough job, but someone had to do it.
People don’t go to Yellowstone Park for the food. But since everyone has to eat eventually, why not enjoy what the surrounding areas have to offer, instead of depending on fast food or a cooler of soggy PB & Js? With a bounty of delicious and unusual roadside options, today’s journey to Yellowstone Park can be a culinary adventure.
